Road Bike Frames

It is usually cheaper to buy a full bike because the manufacturer has the economies of scale purchasing components, and they can usually do this more cost effectively than the individual. However! If you want a specific build that the manufacturer doesn’t offer or if you want to use your existing wheels or components you have sitting collecting dust in the garage, it may well be cheaper to build your own.

We are living in the information era, where experience, skills and know-how are just a mouse click away. So with the right tools and knowledge, it is relatively easy for someone who does their own bike maintenance to build a bike, especially if you have a fair amount of experience with bike maintenance. However, relatively new riders or those who usually drop their bike in at the mechanics for a service, might prefer to get a mechanic to do their build.

This is dependent on a number of factors. How much use / abuse has the bike had? What conditions is it usually ridden in? Has the bike been crashed? How heavy or strong is the rider? How good is the rider at avoiding potholes in the road? The list of potential frame life inhibitors is extensive. Take care of your new frameset and it should last a very long time.

No. Older quill stems worked with 1” threaded steerer tubes and are not compatible the current ‘ahead’ style stem / steerer interface.

Yes, you can mix and match different bar & stem manufacturers, providing the have the same handlebar diameter and stem opening. Looks nicer when they match though!

For those getting into road riding, an entry level road bike costing less than £1000 would suffice. For many riders, a mid-range bike can offer a great mix of high performance at a relatively affordable price point. Mid-range bikes are a key market for the bike industry, meeting the mass market demand has led to some great bikes to be had in the mid-price sector. There is generally a bigger jump in performance from entry-level to mid-range, than from mid-range to top end bikes.

Yes, flat bars can be installed on road bikes, however they would need new gear change levers & brake levers, as flat bars are designed for mtb style shifters and levers. A good way to test whether this would be a good option is to ride a lot on the tops (of drop bars) with hands positioned on the flats, out from the stem, obviously this isn’t as wide as with a flat bar, but it would give an indication of reach fit.

No. Cable discs offer some of the benefits of hydraulic discs but can’t match the modulation and power of a hydraulic system. Cable discs do offer a lower cost and easy maintenance alternative though, as a cable disc system uses regular cable pull levers and cables.

Yes and no. Most bikes use 'core tools' such as allen / hex keys, torx wrenchs, cable, cassette and chain tools. Some bikes vary depending on components fitted, variations include some bottom brackets, chainsets and hydraulic brake bleed tools. 

No. Road bike wheels for disc brake road bikes are not compatible with rim brake bikes. Also, some disc road bikes which came out before through axles became standard used quick release hubs. Some modern wide rim wheels might not fit on older bikes with less clearance.

Disc brakes offer more powerful braking and smooth modulation. Disc brake bikes feature through axle mounting for the wheels, this provides a more solid connection between the wheels and frameset. However! Many riders don't need powerful braking and don't want the extra weight of hydraulic bisc brakes, in addition riders with rim brake race wheels might want to keep using them.

Electronic gear change systems have become more common during the last few years. Instead of using powerful springs to operate derailleurs, small motors move the derailleurs.Either wires or wireless technology are utilised to implement the gear shift. Electronic gears make shifting easier, but not necessarily more reliable or more accurate. Gear shifting reliability and accuracy are reliant on clean, well adjusted derailleurs & cables, as well as clean, non-worn cassette & chain.

If you would like to ride on tarmac but also venture onto trails, tracks, canal tow-paths and green lanes, then a gravel bike could be the answer. The only downside to gravel bikes is a slight reduction in on road performance. This difference could be even less, if you have a spare set of wheels with road tyres fitted, these can be easily swapped and can provide the best of both worlds. If you are keen to ride roads and the prospect of getting dirty doesn’t appeal, just go for a road sportive / endurance bike.

Not necessarily, there are lots of smaller companies which specialise in specific components, such as Chris King, Praxis or Hope. Make sure the bottom bracket is compatible with the chainset and frame, and there shouldn't be any issues.

No.Cassette's vary in fitment type, the fit depends on the wheel hub's freehub - which the cassette mounts on to - Shimano, Campagnolo and Sram all have their own freehub connection types. The number of sprockets also vary from 8 - 13, so as well as sticking to the same fitment type, stick to the same number of sprockets to avoid compatibility issues.

Cassettes with larger sprockets may require a longer rear derailleur cage for shifting to the larger sprockets. Check on your rear derailleur what the maximum sprocket size compatibility. Extender links, such as Wolf Tooth Road Link  get around this problem without the need for a longer cage rear derailleur.

This is a largely personal choice on which most bike riders have an opinion. Different manufacturers provide their own options for all types of bike riding, each manufacturer has their own particular slant on each component and the technology of how they integrate together. While some riders prefer the solid clunk of Campagnolo, others prefer the cutting edge technology of Sram Wifi or the smooth, effortless performance of Shimano. Campagnolo supplied the winning (disc brake) groupset for the 2021 TDF winner, Tadej Pogacar (UAE Team), recent Shimano and Sram wins suggest that at the top end of road racing at least, there isn't too much to choose between manfacturers.

If you are struggling for comfort, it could be a broader bike fit issue. Seeking the services of a bike fitter could help find other bike-fit issues which is making saddles uncomfortable. Another possibility is that you could need more time riding, this would allow your sitting-area time to ‘firm-up’ and get used to being seated.

Yes. Providing stock is available, you can select options such as crank length, cassette ratio, bottom bracket type and derailleur cage length, this allows a good level of customisation for your new build.

Yes! Even a slight knock on the head can cause cracks to the protective foam in the helmet. Cracks and internal damage to the helmet can be hard to see, if in any doubt, replace your helmet.

No. Bottom bracket shells in framesets vary hugely, depending on your bike / frameset manufacturer. They vary in both diameter, width and also in how they fit the frameset. Some are threaded (Italian or BSA British Thread) and some are pressfit. The best way to ensure a new bottom bracket will fit, is to look at your bike's existing bottom bracket and try to match. Check online for fit and compatibility if you are still unsure.

Yes, it is more cost effective to buy a full groupset rather than individual components. Buying a groupset from Merlin allows component options too (providing stock is available), so it is also easier to get exactly what you would like.

We always recommend following manufacturers instructions for fitting any component. The Youtube channels of Park Tools and GCN Tech have very indepth and comprehensive advice for completing all sorts of jobs on bikes, these are also worth watching particularly if you are inexperienced or unsure.