Gravel Bikes

No. Cable discs offer some of the benefits of hydraulic discs but can’t match the modulation and power of a hydraulic system. Cable discs do offer a lower cost and easy maintenance alternative though, as a cable disc system uses regular cable pull levers and cables.

Yes and no. Because the hydraulic brake is a closed system, once they are set up, they should not require much servicing at all. If you regularly use the brakes in filthy weather or in deep mud, braking could wear rotors prematurely because of the mud and grit on the pads grinding into the rotor.

Yes, make sure that disc rotors and pads do not come into contact with degreasers or oil. This contamination will cause the pads to 'glaze over' and lose most of their braking capability. The easiest way to avoid this is to cover up disc rotors when using a spray degreaser or oil on bike transmission. The best way to keep disc brakes working to their optimum is to keep rotors clean and pads free from dirt, grit and oily substances.

Most gravel bikes can run either 700c or 650b / 27.5 wheels, as long as the hub thru axles are the same (usually 100x12mm / 142x12mm). Smaller 650b / 27.5 wheels will result in slightly less clearance over rocky terrain. Most gravel bikes can accept wider tyres while running smaller 650b / 27.5 wheels.

If you would like to ride on tarmac but also venture onto trails, tracks, canal tow-paths and green lanes, then a gravel bike could be the answer. The only downside to gravel bikes is a slight reduction in on road performance. This difference could be even less, if you have a spare set of wheels with road tyres fitted, these can be easily swapped and can provide the best of both worlds. If you are keen to ride roads and the prospect of getting dirty doesn’t appeal, just go for a road sportive / endurance bike.

The main difference between gravel bikes and 29ers is flat bars versus drop bars. Gravel bike bars offer multiple hand positions compared to just one with flat bars. Multiple hand positions are ideal for longer rides or rides over varying terrain. Another big difference is gearing, typically gravel bikes have higher gearing and 29ers lower gearing, so if you regularly ride on the road, you might run out of gears descending at 30mph on a 29er. If most of your rides are off road on trickier terrain than gravel tracks, a 29er could be a better option.

Keep the bike clean! There are parts on your bike which will wear out through normal use (cassette, chain and brake pads), keep your bike clean and lubricated to maximize the lifespan. It is also easier to check the bike over when it is clean. If the bike is kept clean and lubricated it shouldn’t need much attention mechanically. Most routine maintenance jobs are pretty easy to do, see our blogs here, alternatively seek a reputable, skilled bicycle mechanic.

Yes they do! You, your ride mates and your bike will keep cleaner on filthy rides if you fit mudguards. The extent to which they work depends on your bike and the type of mudguards fitted. Fitting full mudguards and mudflaps gives the best coverage, if your road bike will fit them. Even short mudguards on MTB's can do a decent job of reducing the amount of mud and gloop spraying up.

This depends on the terrain you ride and the limits of your bike in terms of tyre clearance. If you ride in gloopy, muddy trails, tyres at the wider end of the spectrum, 40mm+ should give more grip, depending on their tread (more spaced out knobbbles can help reduce mud clogging). Dry, hard packed gravel is fine with narrower tyres and less aggressive tread (such as small knobbles) because grip isn't as vital. Most gravel bikes can run wider tyres on 650b / 27.5" wheels compared to larger 700c wheels. The downside to fatter tyres is that they can feel slow on the road, worth considering if you ride mixed terrain routes.

Yes! Riding tyres with bigger, spaced out tread knobs can make riding on hard, dry, smooth gravel tracks or roads much more hard work. Likewise, using small knob, smoother tyres on muddy wet terrain can reduce grip and traction. Choose tyres which suit your usual rides or keep a spare set of tyres / wheels to swap depending on the terrain and weather. 

Yes. Road disc wheels and tyres will work with your gravel bike. As long as the wheels have the same axles (100x12mm & 142x12) they will work fine, many gravel bike riders have a road wheelset with fast road tyres for days on tarmac.

Thicker bar tape (such as Lizard Skin DSP) is a great way to reduce vibration fatigue in hands and wrists. Alteratively, gel strips (stuck to bars under regular tape) can also help with the same problem. Gloves with extra padding can also help.

Usually yes, imperfections can be trued out using a spoke key tool – get a mechanic to true them if you are unsure. More serious damage to the rim can be too bad to straighten out.

There are no hard and fast rule with this. Generally, the worse the conditions you regularly ride in, the more MTB type pedals and shoes will suit - particularly if your rides include touching shoes down on the ground a lot, or walking / pushing. The more smooth, dry, fully ride-able and predictable your usual gravel tracks are, the more likely you can get away with road pedals and shoes.